|
 |
| Southern Pine Flooring: Flooring Installation |
Strip Flooring
Inspect plywood nailing bases for evenness and sand any
peaking edges, leveling the seams. Flooring should lay perpendicular
to the floor joists. It should also lay with the strips
spanning the longer room dimension end-to-end. It is advantageous
if the overall strip layout runs lengthwise the same
direction as traffic lanes rather than at right angles across the
strip widths. (See Figure 9)
Begin with the "starter strip" of flooring alongside an exterior
wall, preferably the longest room dimension. Refer to
Figure 8. If flooring will be installed in several rooms, locate
the starter strip in a hallway that includes the longest end-to-end
span. The starter strip will be the beginning strip in
rooms either to the left or right of it.
Strike a chalk line one strip wide plus 1/2" from the starting
wall, making certain chalk lines are square. This 1/2" gap is a buffer zone
for expansion. Mouldings will conceal the 1/2" gap between finished flooring and
end walls. Allow a 1/8" space around door jambs and wall partitions. Refer to
Figure 10. Face-nail starter strip tongue side out, with 6d or 8d finishing nails, 1"
from tongue side. Countersink nail heads and align groove side with chalk line.
Refer to Figure 8.
Each course will be nailed with your back to the starter wall, working from
left to right. Recommended nail spacing is 8½ to 10½ and double-nailed 1" to 3"
from ends. Use strips 8" or longer on the ending wall and begin the next course
with the remaining piece. Loosely lay the next 7 or 8 rows. Do not use strips
shorter than 6". Arrange lengths randomly, avoiding clusters of short strips. Using
a tapping block, insert each strip groove to tongue. Blind-nail the tongue into the
subfloor. (See Figure 11) Avoid nailing into subfloor seams, as nails will not
anchor properly. Nail and countersink 2 to 3 rows, clearing the starter wall for
the use of a power nailer. Countersink
all face nails and nail each strip end.
Nail strip sides using an 8½ spacing.
If necessary, rip the last row leaving
a 1/2" space between the wall and
flooring. Face-nail the last runs of the
floor when unable to blind-nail by
hand.
Proper nailing should incorporate
using enough nails, proper spacing,
and the correct nail type. It will also
reduce the likelihood of floor squeaks.
 |
| Table 2: Nailing Schedule |
RECOMMENDED NAILING FOR
T&G SOUTHERN PINE FLOORING
1" and 1-1/4" thicknesses |
| FLOORINGWIDTH |
NAIL
TYPE |
TONGUE OR
BLIND NAIL
SPACING |
| 1/2" to 3-1/2" |
7d or 8d
cut nail
or
screw nail |
8" to 10" and
double-nailed
1" to 3"
from ends |
|
| 4" and wider |
7d or 8d
cut nail
or
screw nail |
every 8" |
| NOTE: DO NOT glue Southern Pine Flooring |
|
|
Plank Flooring
The installation of plank flooring
(4" and wider) is similar to that of
strip floor installations, with a few
noteworthy exceptions.
Generally, recommended fastener
spacing is 8"; however, consult the
flooring manufacturer's instructions for
specific fastener information.
The wider widths of plank flooring
increases the amount of expansion
and shrinkage related to moisture
absorption and evaporation, magnifying
board separations and cupping.
Applying a sealer to the planking
underside prior to installation may
reduce the impact of potential moisture
change problems. Experienced
flooring installers recommend face-nailing
plank flooring that is 8" and wider. Face nailing
can further reduce cupping.
In addition, plank floors are not recommended for
installation over radiant-heated subfloors.
Radiant-Heated Floors
Installation of the subfloor nailing base over radiant-heated
systems is slightly different. Plywood panels cut in
4'x4' sections and saw-kerfed on the underside with a
12" grid 3/8" inches deep will adhere to a radiant-heated
floor using a 35 sq.ft. per gallon cutback mastic spread
rate. Gluing the plywood in place avoids damage nailing
may cause.
 Previous Next 
|
|
