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| Southern Pine Flooring: Finishing and Care |
Proper finishing begins with thorough removal of all construction debris from
the newly installed floor. Nail all loose flooring and replace any damaged boards.
Countersink and fill any exposed nail heads, then inspect the floor for
any other surface imperfections or obstructions.
Sanding the Floor
Always sand lengthwise in the direction of the strips,
never across. With two-thirds the room length in front of
you, begin walking a drum sander forward while slowly
lowering the drum to the floor surface. Before stopping the
forward pass, slowly raise the drum and stop. Walk the
drum sander in the opposite direction, slowly lowering the
drum, walking backwards along the same path. Repeat the
stopping and drum lifting or starting and drum lowering
procedures on each directional change. Begin a new pass
forward every 3" to 4" (about the width of one strip) into
the unsanded area. After completing the entire room width,
walk forward in the opposite direction to sand the remaining
area. In other words, you will be walking forward facing
the opposite wall. Overlap the passes two to three feet.
Refer to Figure 12.
Use an edge sander in closets and in areas the drum
sander will not reach. Generally, recommended sanding
results can be achieved with three sanding cuts (progressively
using grits of coarse, medium and fine). Finally, the
use of a screen disk (same grit as the fine cut) on a buffing
machine blends the telltale marks of edge and drum
sanders.
Stains & Sealers
Floor finishes provide both a protective and decorative surface. A stain is one
option, adding warmth and charm. Stains are available in a wide range of colors.
If the new floor is not stained, it is recommended that a protective sealer be
applied. The two types of sealers are penetrating sealers and surface sealers.
Penetrating sealers are floor waxes that prevent the penetration of liquids
and dirt into the flooring. Chips and scratches are maintainable with small
amounts of wax. On new floors, a liquid buffing wax applied to a wax finish
forms an additional barrier to dirt and stains. Read the buffing wax label carefully,
making certain it is suitable for wood floors. Do not use any product containing
water.
Refinishing existing flooring generally does not require a preliminary sanding
but, rather, a thorough cleaning and another coat of wax, without leaving any
evidence of wax overlap in heavy traffic areas. Penetrating sealers have a lower
luster (or a more moderate shine). As the patina sheen wears away, a reapplication
of wax will restore it.
Surface sealers, on the other hand, do not penetrate the wood-wearing surface.
Instead, they create a wood-bonding surface layer. Different types including
polyurethanes, moisture-cured urethanes, and acid-cured urethanes.
Polyurethanes are the more popular surface sealers. They provide both durability and moisture resistance. They are available in oil and water-based
formulations, in addition to high-gloss, semi-gloss, matte, and satin finishes.
Polyurethane sealers offer excellent resistance to water, scuff marks and
scratches, and provide a durable finish for high-traffic areas such as hallways,
kitchens, bathrooms and family rooms. However, polyurethane finishes
have a tendency to "yellow" as they age, slightly tinting the floor color.
When regular maintenance no longer provides satisfactory floor surface
appearance, sanding is recommended before applying a new coat.
Moisture-cure urethanes are the hardest of the surface sealers. These
urethane sealers are extremely prone to errors. Do not attempt to apply
urethane sealers without the supervision of an experienced floor finisher.
Acid-cured urethanes, also known as "Swedish finishes", provide a clearer
and somewhat harder surface finish than polyurethanes. Again, due to the
technical intricacies of application, consult a floor finishing professional.
The finish selected will affect how often the floor needs cleaning. A
lighter floor will hide dust better; however, dirt, spills, and grit may remain
more visible leading to more frequent sweeping. A lighter floor coloring
enhances room size; a room appears larger and brighter.
On the other hand, darker colors of finishes tend to conceal scratches,
cracks, grit, and sediment, and are more forgiving than lighter colors. Dark
floor colors help to camouflage the visual damages of heel marks, gouges,
and furniture scratches. Since dark colors absorb light rather than reflect it,
a dark floor color may make a room appear smaller than lighter colors.
Finish Application
When applying penetrating stains and finishes, begin by applying
enough of the finish lengthwise to cover about one foot from the side wall
to the mouldings. Using cloth rags, a brush, or a lambswool pad, wipe
evenly to the wall. Apply the stain or wax, then remove and wipe away the
excess. To begin a new run, overlap about 3" (one strip wide) taking care
to remove any excess and preventing lap marks. Water, perspiration, hand
prints, and knee imprints are impenetrable by stains and waxes. Prevent
these common causes of discoloration and spotting by avoiding all
unnecessary contact with the floor.
Allow overnight drying, returning the next day for a power buff with a
fiber buffing or No.1 steel wool. Clean the floor to remove all dust. Apply a
second wax layer, or if a stain was applied on the first pass, apply the first
layer of wax.
With polyurethane finishes, apply along the length of the room, maintaining
a wet edge and feathering brush-stroke overlaps. If edges tack dry,
do not overlap brush strokes. Any minor mistakes can be corrected with a
buffer.
Allow polyurethane layer to dry (usually overnight) then buff with 120
grit screen or No.2 steel wool pad. Three coats provide optimum floor
protection and durability. Remember to buff between each coat.
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